Nose: A classic Lagavulin – smouldering barbeque smoke, oodles of citrus peels, raspberry and peach. It's quite green, with a freshly cut grass vibe in there too. Then there's a wet wood aroma to keep it interesting.

Palate: Bonfire embers give way to hay, orange peel, toffee apples and salted caramel. Burned marshmallows, dark chocolate and cigar smoke, too.

Finish: Drying with bitter orange and wood smoke.

Overall: A deliciously smoky yet multi-dimensional whisky. We like. A lot.

A triumphant entry for one of the annual Diageo Special Releases regulars – the Lagavulin 12 has only missed the very first edition in 2002. 2018's is sweeter than the past few years, with all of the smoke and seaside character that these bottlings are known for.